Meeting Konchok

In the meantime I have learned, from the distance signs, that from the last village Rumtse before the Taglung La Pass and the first village Dehbrink behind the 5.330m Pass its 55 km. Sumit said it’s maximum 45 km, what’s a very long walk for one day, incl. 1.160m climing up from 4.170m until 5.330m. In extrem cases I can do the 40 to 45 km, but 55 km…. puh.  And the lented tent is already in Dehbring. Playing through I plan to get up at 2am to hopefully manage to be at the top at noon (31km) and reaching Dehbrink (another 24km) before the dark. It’s nearly end of September, so it gets dark a little bit after 6pm.
Until here the weather was more than fabulous. Today on Friday some little clouds are coming. Maybe the forecast from Xavier and Chamille? Tomorrow colder?
Today I will reach Rumtse.
But I am so tired. I have to rest and rest again, I don’t know really why….. So …in Rumtse there is a day rest planed. Little bit after a government school in Sasoma I meet a men. He is one of the guys who is left with an open mouth, understanding that I continue the peace walk until Nepal and Birma, walking already since 5 years and five month. But he has a good news for me. There is a short cut for walkers, jeeps, and bycicles, so the way over the pass is ‚just‘ about 45 km. But steep. Aha. Great.

Little bit after, a monk is walking the street downwards. He just comes from Rumtse, trying to safe a dog. Someone put a wire around his neck when he was small. Because it’s a hairy and wild dog, no-one realised, that this wire was still there. No it is infected, the dog kind of stinks from this wound and maybe some worms already busy in that wound. They tried to catch him today with a lot of people, but the dog is so scared of humans….. it did not work. Konchok, the monk, thinks, the dog maid not make it.
Konchok is a smiling monk, teaching at this govornment high school, which I just passed. When he learned about my walk he forwarded his both hands to me to thank me. ‚We (monks) should also do like this‘. We sat down at the street side and talked. Then he invited me to his simple rented place, just a small room. The electricity does not work today.
Also we had to look for water at the spring. We both watched the old bridge, covered with metal plates. Every time, when a car passes, it sounds like something frightening happening. A new bridge is in construction.
When we came back from the spring, the army passed with lots of vehicles. How could this army men power be used, at least partly, for other purposes? !!!! I tell him about a ‚peace armee‘ which could be for the beginning just 5 % of the regular armee. That peace armee should be also payed by the government but not have any guns or other weapons. They have to be taught in peace technics, like meditation and deep listening and conflict solving tools, to send in areas, who are in trouble, but where still communication is possible, to go into schools, university’s and houses, to speak with the people. Slowly this peace army has to become 10% …. 15% and so on. So that we don’t need the armed ones one day…….

Reguarding the bridge noise, Konchok tells later the evening, about a cloud blast in 2010 in Leh. I heard about these cloud blast before from some people. It happens here and then, so people got so frightened, that just don’t want to come to Ladakh anymore. That night, Konchok was north of Leh, it was raining, when he woke up from a dream screeming ‚the water is coming‘. Everyone in the house calmed him down, but to that time in Leh, a house with 7 relatives of him, was washed away. They found just 3 bodies later…. he went there later and he could not say, where the house was standing before. That night, so many more died and the damage was enormous.
Then he reported also about a sunny day closed by. It did not rain at all, when black water came down a normally little creek. Wherefrom, no-one know. I said I saw this black water floods on videos after the Japan Tsunami….. And for this black water with lots of stones and whatever in it, I had also one idea:
sometimes in a glacier, it can happen that there is a lake inside. You can’t see it from outside. And some day, because of melting, the whole lake could flow out….. Yes, there is a glacier above….. he said.

Sasoma, where we are, I learn, is the oldest village in Ladakh. Earlier the king had his palace here. Some ruins are left.

Konchok, 42, is kind of a ‚free‘ monk. Since he was 9, he was given as a second child from his father to a monastery. He did not like it for a long while. But know he loves it. He had very strict and strong teachers. Later he left the monastery and became a teacher. He also recieves the same sallery then any other teacher. At the weekend, he drives with his car back to Leh, to his sister’s house. Teachers rotate after 2 years to other schools, so his time in Sasoma is finished with the 2 1/2 month winter holiday in two month. After he is sent to another school in Ladakh.
Even now he is studying for another exam.
Also now he translates a scripture about Buddha with 55 chapters from Hindi to Tibetan. 7 chapters are already done.

I enjoy our rich conversation. His room has no running water and it’s difficult to cook there with all the buckets …. without electricity today….. The ‚washing room‘ is actually just a dry toilet. Washing is outside. Maybe with some water you heat up on the gas before. But he hisself enjoys washing at the weekend at his sister’s….
So we did in the dark with a torch…..
I ask him about meditation and to my surprise he answers, that he does not meditate a lot. Also he says, that everyone is so surprised with this. But he has to be honest. He grew up by learning knowledge. So his teachers wanted, that he had good knowledge. So somehow he continued. Anyhow, he does some exercises now…. who are a kind of meditation. And the chantings followed by some silence…..

I tell him about my expiriences with the monasteries and the monks there. About my plans with ‚maybe proparbly‘ building a stupa or even a spiritual village. I learn, what is to put in a stupa, for example jewels, incenses, holy scriptures, prayers…… and so on. A stupa should have specific mesures…… to find also in the internet. We found out, that we both know the walkin stupa in hungary. The monks, who take care of the stupa in hungary are his friends and he visited them some years ago. There is now also a temple beside the stupa and a nun is taking care of the temple.
During our all evening conversation I get more and more confident, without and with being encouraged from his side, that I/we are able to initiate a stupa or something very semilar by ourselves. And for sure, I stay very much open to do that together with monks, his holiness…. or and other spiritual leaders from different religions/directions …..

We also spoke about healings and sound healings … we had a real good night and a next morning.

Rumtse is just 2km away from his home. But I thought there are some houses closer to the pass. But not.. . Anyway, I stay now in a ‚homestay‘ donated by Konchok, in Rumtse. I have two nights here. Resting, writing, leaving tomorrow at around 4am.

Konchok offered me different other options, like staying in his room, while he is in Leh at the weekend. Also coming with him to Leh, to see his sister’s family and his master coming this weekend….. I was also real interested in that. But I decided to follow my duty, to manage walking this way to Manali and focussing on it. Yesterday, there was some snow here, but now it seems to clear up again.

Today and yesterday I discovered some stupas here. Walls of stupas and 100s of meter long. I circled around of all of them. Sounding the ‚om mani padme hum‘. Some of them are built by people, to think of there sins or to transform there habbits.

And something is also special. I create so many positive ideas, what to do after the peace walk. The ideas rising up, as if I would be in a fast….

For example
-creating stone engraved with ‚love‘ or ‚peace‘ putting anywhere in nature…
-Offering other peacewalks……

walking – chanting

The Buddhists turn around the Stupas clockwise. The Muslims always turn against the clock. Where does it come from? Knowing that the earth turns east it seems, that the Moslems have the right direction. But this is a way of looking on or into it. Facing the planet from outside, from the univers, with the face looking at our globe as we see it in the map, then the planet turns to the right – means against the clock. But knowing there is no up and down…. we could also look from the univers, looking at our planet with the south ‚up‘, then the planet turns clockwise – to the ‚left’……… I am a bit confused imagening as a human being, looking as a human towards different directions from the univers. Sometimes I look standing on the planet facing north or south, on the northern or southern hemisphere…. imagining the sun circling that confuses me even more…. also two different circles….. hihihi

Before reaching Hemis monastery another huge stupa appears on the horizon. You can also walk on it, with lot of corners, but different to others in that way, that there is a room below, a big hall, and a small room on top with a sand mandala in the center. All the building is a great ’sand‘ mandala, but not flat as a sand mandala, kind of blown up with space inside, nearly like a globe. (If  that globe would be the earth, a walker on top of the stupa would/could be the a circling planet or sun. Knowing that the earth is in fact circling the walker could be, while walking the still standing sun, while the earth beyond him is turning….. (I hope I don’t confuse you… hihihi)). Anyway, here was held last year (2016) the Kump Mela, a Buddhist gathering to honour ‚Naropa‘ millennium. From now on it will held again every 12 years.
200 elevation meters higher the famous and rich Hemis monastery. If you talk with people about Hemis, the very first or second comment is, uuuuhhh, they have a lot of money. After lunch at a restaurant below I asked at the monastery, if I could stay as a peace pilgrim for two night for free, by invitation….. Actually I ended up at the ticket office with two young monks. First of all, if I want to enter a monastery I think of seeing and feeling the energy of a place, where people pray. Also I am happy to exchange my energy in that place. So it’s receiving, what’s already there and giving, what I can contribute. For that holy act I expect a free entrance. So I came again in conflict with the both young men, who are actually kind of misused to be cashier’s. I also asked them to call someone responsible for the request I had for the guest house. But they just turned there head back again to somehow a important conversation having with each other….. I did come not to the idea to make a sitting strike, waiting for them to be ready to have a mindful conversation, or forcing them to call someone else, to adress my request…..
So after some try’s I turned around. Outside in the mountains they build a beautiful golden Buddha. He is sitting under the fresh air surrounded only by the elements. Even seeing him from down is already so beautiful. Walking up I turned again around a stupa and later around the Buddha. There is a feeling in my belly from this conversation or non-conversation and I have to diguest it before I continue. So I sit down at the Buddha to understand what that all means…. For sure I will not sleep here and stay the day after here to see another monastery 300m further up….. I also feed the donation box here….. The feeling kind of gets diguested. …. I see some more Stupas little further away, get there, circle with ‚om mani padme om‘ and find nearly no end…. I see a smaller golden ‚Tara‘ sitting also outside on a rock, get closer, beautiful…… and then finally leave the area….. down to Karu. …. on the way again so many stupas and mani-walls (where people brought there in stone hammered om mani padme hum mantra) hundreds of meter and km long walls.

The house in Karu, which I choose is under full renovation, but the whole village again is a army base, so I ask at this ‚only‘? privat place which I can find very close to a small power station at the Indus. But it’s no problem to stay here. Some more workers build a green house. One side a stone wall, the side towards the sun will be covered with plastic. All houses in Ladakh have the ‚magic‘ „Zampa“. Zampa is done from barley. It is a fine wheat now, and roasted. With nearly every tea Zampa is consumed with it. A half full spone Zampa directly in the mouth or mixed in the tea. The tea is done from black tea with milk and salt. Often also with butter in it. It can happen often, that the butter got a bit old, but that makes the tea for the Tibetans of Ladakhies even more tasty, it seems. A variation is the butter tea with milk and sugar. I don’t like the butter tea, because I don’t like black tea at all and also I don’t eat sugar. So I always ask for hot water. But Zampa is really my thing. Because in most houses ‚muesli‘, a kind of porrage is not known, Zampa is a good alternate in the morning, mixed with what ever is avaible. Gunsang, the 20year old daughter of the house has a kilo of Zampa next morning ready for me, good food for the mountain areas with no houses.
My sandals make me another proplem. The shoemaker put two layers of rubber into the sandals under my hills, because I walked that area down and a plastic close to my angles started to hurt. But the rubber is not really to big and the sides of the rubber are kind of sharp. Gunsang brings me a knife, which I sharpen at the stone stairs to round the edges. I little operation, but successful.

I am busy with the happenings in all the monasteries and the non-exchanges with the monks. To build a stupa I can’t work with monks, who don’t want to communicate with ‚usual‘ people. There is a kind a hierarchy in the Buddhist system, what I never really liked. The monks and the nuns, the lay men and lay women. In some traditions the hierarchy is monks, then lay men, nuns and lay women….. I believe that the monks and nuns have to integrate and transfer the complete knowedge to the people. If there is a ritual, the monks and nuns have to prepare a space within the lay people can have the same full spiritual experiences than the „educated non-lays“. The monks and nuns have more time to study, that I know, but they have the duty to transmit the essence fully, who wants to recieve….. and there are lay people who have the full capacity to understand the full teachings and reach also enlightenment. If especially monks thinks or behave in a way, that there only know everything better, and the way of giving and receiving is only from monks to lay people, I can’t agree and can’t work with them together.
So I start to think of alternates. I know that we did a very good job, about 10 or 12 years ago, to initiate or re-initiate the light temple in Angeln close to Flensburg/Hamburg in north Germany with and by toning prayers. And I kind of know, everything worked very fine. So, can we build a stupa by our own?!? Can we initiate a multispiritual stupa even?!? ………..
Can we powerfully initiate a place of worship for peace?!!!? By the work of harmonic singers, sound healers and toning and sound prayers?!!!! I guess we can?!!!!

I am here and there stopped by some people who search for an Italian guy. He is missed since 3 to 4 days. A hiking group of 5 had a afternoon tea in the mountains while one of them just wanted to walk a bit around. But this guy, maybe a little bit older, did not come back. The 4 searched and searched but could not find no 5. Finally they went to Leh. Now a team of 21 tries to find no 5. The hope is still there, the last night’s have not been to cold. Injured, lost or worst???

In Muri my attention comes to a house, some busy people around. Two monks leaving the house when I come closer. The grandfather of the house died 4 days before and is still in one of the rooms. But again, whatever happens, the Ladakhies are happy to invite a stranger without hesitation. The house is busy with visitors  and preparations. 12 monks will come the next day to celebrate again. 500 candles need to be done and prepared for example. From wool the 500 wicks has to be rolled. Food need to be cocked…… The monks come all from Hemis monastery. And 4 days later the grandfather will be burned on the property.
Like this house, even while having a quite big house, has no own wash room. There is a outside toilett and washing is somehow also outside in the creek.

leaving Leh

Last morning I went again to the Stupa. Sooo good. Packing and then we met with some friends for breakfast at Sumits and Tanri’s cafe. No-one could leave early from Leh, so also I can’t. Sumit gives last instructions where do bring or let bring the tent and camping gears After using, which I can pick up in the mountains after the first pass.
And I learn. Water cooks in Leh on 3500m at 73 Grad. Physics.
Through the markets I get accompanied by Elisabeth and Alok. Then the way leads down towards the Indus. And through annoiying areas with fences at both sides and military, military, military. I wanted to rest somewhere, to reflect, but just not possible.
I stayed so long in Leh and I can’t believe that I have already three proplems rising up through the day. My little left toe makes a blister. He kind of does not feel free and moves always under the toe beside him. The cut at my left hill hurts more than I expected. And behind my right last teeth, 1 cm behind or so, there is something hurting. What is that? A inflamation?

Ladakh’ies are great. ‚How many nights do you want to stay‘ is the first question before I even enter. After a little while I get introduced to the prayer room. I learn that nearly every house has a prayer room. In this one a whole cupboard full of statures and other praver utility’s. There is a seat reserves for a monk, with a big drum. He comes every month for half an hour.
And I am happy to do here some meditation. The small kids are sitting before the room and try also the same postures. Sonam is not allowed to enter the prayer room anymore, because she is now married and belongs to another household. Her husband serves at the army in Pang (on my way to Manali). One month working, one week free.

Next morning I climp up to the monastery. The first obstacle is the ticket table. I just don’t accept any entrance fee to a prayer place. ‚If you want a fee from me, I just go again‘ and in the move to turn towards the stairs the ‚money man‘ says to me, I can see the temple for free….. I enter. Prayer places have to be free, but, if I feel, I am so happy to give a donation. A 7m golden Buddha surprises me. The lower level is closed so I enter at the highst of the chest. Impressiv, beautiful and powerful. I circle clockwise around the statue and start to sing inwardly the mantra ‚om mani padme hum‘. The mantra helps to develop love and compassion. I am so surprised, that I love to continue for maybe an hour.
During the day I continue to sing inwardly the mantra. I circle around every stupa. I wittnes some women, who circle around a complex with 7 big stupas. Also activating the prayer wheels. One of the lady’s seems to be a 20 year old daughter, who is just joining, enjoying not really, the body shows only protest – but it seems, that she has to be there.

After a little nap I think of leaving the main street. Silently I say, if you want to meet me, that’s the time now, and I mean Xavier und Chamille. They are a French cycle couple, which I met in Leh. Together with another bicycling couple Lukas and Katharina, there were happy to bring me fruits or water to the areas, where there are no houses on the way to Manali. But now, there will be in front of me. 200m more and I will turn right. A family from the other side of the road calls me, little conversation….. but in fact, they were just an instrument of the univers to slow me down. And then…. Xavier and Chamille appeared. As everyone, also they started late, leaving from Leh. Happy meeting at the road. We talk about the weather. Since 2 days it’s amazing. Not a single cloud at the sky and the air is so clear.

But… they report…. from Saturday on, in 4 days, the weather will cool down, but not rain or snow anymore….. The univers and the elements can help to change the cold….. I get 2 bananas….hihihi. I tell them about my issues…. little toe got a ordenary tape, better…. maybe the couse was also a new sock who is a little bit to teight in the toe area, I wear another one now…. the hill got a ‚compeed‘ high tec tape, to hold the cut together, helps a bit…… And the place behind my teeth, I still don’t know, but since I slowed down, since I sing the mantra, it seems to get better?!….. 

The both are a little amused, that I turn around all the stupas and sing ‚om mani padme hum‘. I did once a 3 weeks chanting continuously, and I was very successful with it. After a while singing the mantra ‚om namah shivaya‘, also during the night, it just continued while sleeping… And then one night a Yogi in his light body was sitting beside my bed… …. but anyway…..  I did not a lot of km. ‚Maybe I continue singing  this time ‚om mani padme hum‘ all the way…. until Manali.‘ It seems that my body wants to show me, to slow down. I just have to follow. ‚I passed also at the Tiksey monastery. But closed. I still climed the stairs up. The monks had a little celebration, making arrows…. and from time to time, they blew horns and drummed. Really nice…..‘ I report. And then I met a girl, she was so shocked, that I walk along the street. She could not understand, that I don’t take the hiking trails. ‚If we would walk as 2 people, I would be the one, who would force us, to walk away from the street, but for this time, alone, it’s already enough adventure, to go on the road, with the high 5000m passes, not knowing about the weather and with all the areas, without any houses ……
Anyway, we said 7-10 times goodbye….. Finally they started cycling. Uuuuhhhh…. I love cycling also so much….. a short moment of good cycling happenings arises in me…. And then I see the perfect image for a foto, I am not quick enough for a foto….. they stopped in the shade and turned around to photograph me….. final good bye….

I turn towards Stakna Gompa (monastery). Only through a third person a monk was communicating with me about my intention to offer them the host role …. I invented a while, that I would appeciate a direct communication. …. no way…. I went somewhere else.

one week more in Leh/Lahdakh

Dear friends,

I am still in Leh. Surprise, also for me. After organising everything for the next 475km, after meeting new friends, after writing all the articles in the blog, I felt, that I have also to rest. Just resting. And I did. So good. So tomorrow I continue walking and from tomorrow, I am not reachable for 3 to 4 weeks, because there is no Internet.

I am and I was so surrounded by beautiful people. This place is blessed by the people and there spiritual praxis. As I wrote earlier, lots of things came together here. I stayed at Zaltak guest house and I was heartly welcome here. And I can highly recommend this place for you, if you plan to come to Leh. 2 weeks I stayed here and I had to pay only a very little fee for my stay here, so nice and welcoming. The lady who owns the place has a beautiful skill to gather the right people together.

I met also some more ‚Stupa Lover’s‘. My ‚Is-ness‘ feels so much supported by the ‚Is-ness‘ of the Stupa, just beautiful.

A week ago I got blessed with a ‚donation‘ by the bank. I looked for money at a bank mashine, when I suddenly got money without putting my PIN code in there. I went 2 days later to the bank office to report about the issue. The assistant manager surged for the mistake, but could not find it. So, what to do? I asked him at the end of the procedure….. he lifted the shoulder up and I kept the money. After a while I accepted the money and try to handle it as a ’normal‘ donation.

Leh is a wonderful example also for the environment. In all the shops you never get a plastic bag. This is a praxis here sice decades, as I understand. There is also a refill station for drinking water at one of the shops. They counted to have saved more than 700.000 plastic bottles by this praxis.

Also very nice to see, how houses are build here. The sand at the properties is suitable to be used with cement to make briks or concrete. Poplars are growing here too and there are used for all kind of construction help or building the roof. If there are stones needed, the mountains offer a lot. Only transport and labor has to be payed to get them.

Leh is on the way to get more and more tourists, in the moment there is an increase of 25 percent every year!!!!!

I sent a lot of love around the world




no internet for the next 4 weeks

Dear friends.

For the next four weeks I do not have internet.

I am walking 475km through the Himalayas crossing some high passes. But following a street. So don’t worry.

I got fantastic help from some people who know the area. So they lent me tent and sleeping bag and mat. Got also very good helpers for the way.

One of them will deposit the tent, sleeping bag at the way, so I have to carry the extra volume and weight only for about 100km plus. So blessed.

There was yesterday an interview with the ‚Time India‘. Let’s see, what the outcome will be.

I still love to be with the stupa. Soooo good.

Love Thomas

The Stupa in Leh

Welcoming in Leh was just great. Lots of thinks came together here. Kesava organized a place to stay. And new friends showed up. Also Katarina and Lukas, cyclists, which I met earlier on the road, are still in Leh. …….

But the most amazing ‚thing‘ in Leh is the super beautiful walkin Stupa. I earlier saw one walkin Stupa in Hungary. That one actually the biggest Stupa in Europe. Anyway, I was asking myself already, why there is no stupa here, where you can walk on, where you can do walking meditation? And there the beautiful building is.

I go as often as I can, idially at sunrise and Sunday. This stupa is a gift to me.

I do love to inspire people, to build a Stupa, where we did the light temple initiation, or reinitiation, in the north of Germany, close to Flensburg in ‚Angeln‘. But this would/ will be a big project. Everything is possible.

Fotos you can see on instagram: schmockelthomasheinrich


Religions have to permanently bring the evidence, that they teach Love and Peace. Love and Peace is the basic every religion is embodying. If we can’t see the evidence of Love and Peace in a relegions teachings, it’s not a true teaching…..!!!!!


Every religion has the responsibility, to show the people the way to freedom. Freedom is arising, when people understand there true self. Freedom is arising, when people can see God in themself. If people can connect with God directly, they become there guidance directly from there heart. They will follow directly universal rules. People will behave from that rules by themself, because they understand, its good for them. From that heart wisdom place happiness is arising.

to Leh

It’s still 36 km to Leh. So I say good bye to Kesava. I will see him tomorrow. I can’t walk that far and I started the day to late for this.

After seing the Zanskar river flowing into the Indus the street went up to Magnetic Hill. After I thought, I am on the top, the street went more and more up, km by km. What a illusion. Finally on the top, the view so far. clouds on the sky, but a view so clear, reaching at least 40 km. And a long way down. And it took time. I walked slow, as mostly, but when the evening came no privat house arised.  Only military after military camp, army camp after army camp. There was no privat house to find to finish the day. A Sikh temple. People praying inside. I thought to myself, I will go a little further, because they need some time to finish. I also saw through the door a Krishna picture. All the praying has to be towards inside, towards us all inner god-self.  Images outside have us only to remind that they are the mirrors, to look inside. Mirrors to show us into what we can wake up, into what we can realize. Doing that way, the prayers get very effective….
I come to a shop. They sent me to the next monastery,  But there, it’s already dark, I can’t knock anywhere, and to both sides of the road, not ending 15 km long military basis. Not to believe. Is that really, what Leh needs???? Do there have to be so many soldiers and camps. I kind of doubt. But I have no choise. I can’t ask anywhere. Fences and walls all along the way. So I end up in Leh, everything dark, no electricity….. at 22h. I book a room again for a cheaper rate. Puh. ..

The way of the heart

The journey continues. After some km two different ways. One is towards Alchi, a old monestary close to the Indus. One is along the main road. I kind of feel attracted to see Alchi, but it’s early and it’s not far and it would mean, to stay in Alchi….. I ask my heart, what to do, and I am so surprised that we continue on the main road. After some 100m I feel clearly, it’s so right to do so. After passing beautiful village Saspol, where I had some more tomatoes under a nice tree at a good care taking place, I see to my big surprise a big mulberry tree.  And it has fruits. Ripe fruits at the 2nd of September?!!! I know Mulberries from the middle east, where they get ripe in Mai , June or July,  depends on the area. But that late in the year, I have never seen a mulberry tree having fruits. And I love tgem soo much. It seem no-one is interested to harvest some or dry them…. a car stands underneath and is fully covered with all the berrys, which glue, if there are to ripe.

At a army base, where I shortly rested, after a long walk today, I suddenly see Kesava from south India, a bicycle rider. We quickly become friends and he walked with me through this 3 km army camp to Nimmu,  where we rented a cheap reduced room.

A little bit cold evening. And it has snowed in the 5000m mountains. Does it effect the walk through the passes or is that just a cold week. Later i hear, the Monsun in India there days further south is so strong these days, so many flooding. So maybe some of the to many clouds came just over…..

Continue reading The way of the heart

Indus and Kaltse

In Lamayuru I met a very nice chinese guy. He mentioned, that I also could leave the road to hike on sideways. But I decided to stay on the road, first I do not need another adventure, but mainly I wanted to walk more at the Indus. The road went spectacular in a zic zak steep down into a kind of canyon. And then continued for a while in that narrow valley, until it totally opens up into the wide Indus valley. Something attracks to the river. What, I don’t have a clue.
In Kaltse I found a nice house to stay. From that side I was coming the village was a bit unorganized, but had even a try of a small industrial area. Through all the little poor houses, I could look through some area with a good looking yellow house beside some big stupas. No question that I could stay, ‚how many days will you be here?‘ The nephew Jimmed of my host is one of 4 kids, which she takes care of. She is the sister of one of the parents who are working in Leh. Jimmed is 12 and has already a artist name born from the sound of his name G.Me!!! He draws fantastic portraits. Always he draws boys in Manga style and with long hair hanging in the face. He by himself is not allowed by his teachers to have long hair, but he would love. If the hair of the boys is to long he just comes and cut it back to 2cm.
As I leave the house I am so surprised to see around a mountain corner a big offering on shops and restaurant’s. Everything is suddenly there. Everything for what I was looking for the last days. Fruits, nuts, good warm food…… With this abundance I have to stay a bit. I have some apricots and hot water.
Coming newly out of town a internet cafe. Uuuuh. I could stay all day long and write the blog. But internet is not working. Next year they say, it will be better.
Somehow the Indus is kind of magic, but what is it? Some stone? …..???
The weather is a bit cloudy, fresh here and there some little rain.
The 84year old Ladakh lady and topfit, who is my next host, is praying later in the evening, while others prepair the dinner, with her prayer wheels. Prayer wheels are lots used in Tibetan Buddhism, as big wheels on the street, or smaller ones often to find close to the monasteries or this hand prayer wheels. They have all papers with prayers inside and it’s believed, when you turn the wheels, the prayers get spread around. The hand prayer wheels are helping also to concentrate so you can focus better. This last has two different kind of hand prayer wheels. One is silver and one is kupper/gold. Using the different types makes also a different effect. There are 7 different metals used for prayer wheels.

Again and again I am resting at the Indus. I don’t make it towards Saspol today as planed. It rains first and then, a little later I feel stopped a Eco village in Tokpo. I am invited to stay to nights. I get a little cabin. Internet for the blog, no….. So I use all the time for resting. After breakfast the next day I move back to my cabin, on my bed and realize how good a massage could be now. So I decide to give it to myself. I kind of see a spiritual lightful hand that moves over my body. Everywhere where I need a stimulation, the hand does with my concentration what I need. So I move all the back down, spot by spot. Also shoulders, legs and head I treat. I even learn some new graps who are done, so I can use for others later. After the treatment I fall in a deep relaxing sleep. I repeat the treatmen two more times and two more time I fall in a deep sleep afterwards. Thsts how I spend all the day, until dinner.

A little group of 4 is also 2 days guest in the Eco hotel. One of them is the Ladakhi guide.  We start sharing about Kashmir and Ladakh and India and so on and he gives me some more information. ‚Some time ago the Kashmiries made a campaigne against the minorities of Hindies in Kashmir. The Hindus felt after a while not safe anymore and gathered and decided to leave there home land Kashmir. Now Indian government changed, a Hindu party is on power and Kashmir feels some ‚karma‘ coming back through getting more controlled through Indian army.‘

Then he reports about Muslims in Ladakh. ‚In Leh we allowed the Muslims to build all together four mosque, because we believe in freedom of relegions and everyone should be happy. But in Kargil, where he Buddhist are in minority, the one little temple, the Buddhist wanted to renovate – no allowness.‘ ‚Also Muslims believe that we are dirty, they don’t consider us as clean‘