this and that

Better buildings for the Himalayas
The new monestary in Dankhar has two temple. Non of them was open. I asked one of the 60 monks, why? ‚Because it’s to cold. We have puja always in the kitchen. Only in July and August the temple is open….‘ Same in Komic. It’s just to cold to use the main temple ‚We use the temple only 3 month, in June, July and August‘
In this area the cold tempretures are a big problem. Maybe more solar energy would help, but I think a different type of modern building is more the solution, where the sun heats up the buildings. All winter and summer long it’s mostly sunny.

2nd time to Leh
Here and there I get asked, why I go to Leh the second time. When I talk how everything developed through an inside, I still get goose bumps.

Visions
The ideas of building different buildings in northern Germany, when I return from the peace walk feels kind of concrete, but it’s still in the vision stage. Further though I don’t have any experience in building something, even not a tiny house….even though I do not have any money…..and I do not want to owe anything….
Nothing of that what I want to build shall be mine…. it has to be for the public good….
The vision I have until now
…. a peace stupa maybe in the ocean/fjord
…. a meditation hall close by the stupa
…. a vipassana center
…. a light temple for silence and toning
…. a silence place for around the clock 24/7
All in the area Angeln, between Flensburg, Kappeln und Schleswig
…. and there is more, not that concrete, but also there….
….
It feels big…. But we know, challenges are good… But I don’t want to do it because of challenges, neather anything for myself….. I will be just the channel…..

Circeling clockwise
As I mentioned,  the Love and Compassion mantra ‚om mani padme hum‘ is the mantra in Tibetan Buddhism. There are also ‚om mani padme hum‘-stones. Some very old, some younger or new. They lay often in hundreds or thousands on special places close to temples or other places. The mantra reciting is also done around this places. Something I did not realize until 10 or 15 days. Sometimes this places are in a middle of a street. And sometimes, they build the street in such a way, that you can always drive clockwise around. ….

Last year this ‚om mani padme hum‘ mantra enchanted itself in myself. This year this did not happen yet. Curious. ….

Sandals
My Sandals are nearly broken. The sole is nearly gone, so that the upper klipper, which is fixed inside the sole is visable from underneath….
Kaza, the next small town, but Spiti capital can hopefully help. One day and 20km away. Maybe getting a new sole, maybe getting new sandals….
These pair I have from Tarald from Norway, met him in Greece in summer 2016, they carried me already 4.800 km.
It’s always hard to say goodbye to sandals, when you can walk so good in them…..

Age
Again I discussed this topic, when Aparna was here. Really interesting topic. I am kind of fine with my counted age since birth in years. In the other hand I don’t agree with the fact, that the cells renew themselves from a specific age slower. This I can’t allow, even though it happens. But, as I don’t allow illnesses to manifest, and I did often with different starting issues, I can’t allow this unneeded aging process to happen….. so as a sign to my mind and system, I will still continue to count my age backwards – and it feels soo good. Now I am 51!!!

Aparnas daughter Vedangi
is starting her world record attempt on 15th of June in Perth/Australia. Vedangi, 19, will cycle with her bicycle 29.000km in 100 days around the world as youngest women to do so. Blessings to Vedangi and her parents Aparna and Vivek. All are present in Perth, when she starts.

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Lalang, Demul and Komic

I am so happy that I choosed this route. Sempa Dorje guided me to do so. It’s a bit challenging, especially the 2nd day from Lalung to Demul, when it goes steep up. But the way is good done, even partly constructed,  just for humans and animals.
It comes up from Dankhar 3.900m, Lalung 3.700m,  Demul 4.190m, Komic 4.587m. But I am not convinced by the correctness of the elevation meters. To Komic it felt much easier than altitude let’s guess.
The view is everywhere spectacular.

The village women in Lalung celebrated a mantra Shanting by circleling clockwise around the temple. (Also very beautiful temple with lots of statues with need of renovation). Later they sat down having tea and cookies while continuing the prayers, also by using prayer chain and prayer wheels.

All the income of the homestays in Demul get shared in the community. There is a coordinater who comes in the morning with a book, collects the money. And everyone’s seems very happy with the solution.

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Aparna Aria in Dankhar

Already in the evening Aparna arrived by Taxi. We meet on the street in upcoming darkness. Joy is big to see each other and I guide her to the room. The Isralies and Marina from Argentina, now as well in Dankhar, which I met earlier have there last evening in Tenzins homestay and we are invited to be there. Aparna has only her woolen half jacket with her and we have to climb some steep area in the dark up close to the fort. Aparna needs my hand not to slip down and for inner safety. The evening is great and she is so happy to walk back to our room later on, after 4 days travelling and little sleep on busses and train. But 400m of walking on a dirt road have to be done after there. She needs again my hand to manage and I think she is a bit surprised  (or even shocked) how the conditions are.

Because some of the restaurants in Dankhar are relatively costly I found a nice Dhaba to have breakfast. It seemed very long until we had our food ready and after 1 1/2h we were just ready to go, when Aparna started a intensiv conversation with the owners lady, which is also teacher at the monks boys school. I did not know what the conversation was, but I lost interest in waiting after 10 min, told her that I will wait at the closed by old monastery where I wanted to show her around. Aparna just quit her teachers job and now she is asked, to coach or even teach here.
The afternoon we slept, she still super exhausted, I a bit, and Aparna had also acclimate to the high. For tomorrow I had planed to get her to a mountain lake 250m more up.

The next day she really had a appointment at the monks boys school and stayed until afternoon. She had told, to my surprise, that she did not want to go up to the lake. She had even breathing problem from our room to the Dhaba. But I went. The beginning was a bit hard, but then it was not so steep anymore and I enjoyed it so so so much. At the lake a stupa stands in the wild. A little bit more up a view point with some prayer flags. Soooo beautiful. After a while I decided to get Aparna here. I went down to the village with exitement and fully convinced, if needed, to push her up here. Down in the village I could not find her. (Later I found out, I went to the wrong school). When she showed up, the still did not want to get up there and had some news. She did not want to walk with me, instead of staying for 10 days in the village, coaching and teaching…..

Next morning, she had more news. She had a dream. Also she said, she does not like teaching anymore. Now she will go home again. …… ok….. surprise
After informing everyone whom she promised to, it felt like escaping, fleeing…. suddenly she sat in a taxi to Kaza…….
No time to show her the nice pictures from the mountain lake area anymore, without breakfast she escaped…..

The days later I often thought about her…. I am proparbly to optimistic, that she have could managed the pathes I walked….. also sad, that she could not accept the alternates, I had offered her, to enjoy this beauty of Spiti……. Anyway, I took her with me, in my steps……

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Welcome to Spiti Valley

After crossing the exit point of the ‚inner line‘ area a sign: ‚Welcome to Spiti Valley‘. Another main destination this year. From now on I have to slow down a bit. I am good in time. I enjoy even more the beautiful nature…. I rest much more, here and there a beautiful place to meditate in the nature.
At one point a while ago a side valley enloaded lots of stones during a heavy rain towards a bridge to be build. Now, brigde and stones are the same level. Metal for construction is just demolished and tapped together as a woolen ball.

In Tabo is another break point. A ‚market place‘, filling up proviant, eating fresh fruits. One of the few phone points, so I contact Aparna, to find out, that she is on the way again. Here is a old monastery,  build in 996 after Christ. Beside a new monestary and a big stupa. Young monks exercising outside some gestures of convincing others in conversations, I am allowed to stay in a dormitory of monasteries guest house, which is in renovation, another attraction are meditation caves, I meet some new and former met travellers, really nice…..

Among the travellers is a Israeli family with 3 kids. They always have a few years at home and then the whole family goes on a one year journey again. I met earlier families who have done a year off, but to do that on a regular basis is just fantastic, the best education for the kids at all, and super inspiring. Just great…..

I continue my slowness, find again nice places to rest, for example a beach at the Spiti river, and more meditation caves without any tourist use….

After Shichling – 3470m – the way goes up to 3.900m to Dankhar, a pictures village, again with old and new monestary.  Just arriving Dankhar I get stopped by a teacher of a government school. After a bit I sit with the students to exercise english practise.
The new monastery invites me and ’soon arriving Aparna‘ to stay for 3 nights. The room has the best view into the valley and snow covered 5-6000m mountains and glaciers on the other side of the valley.
The hole old monastery is really impressive. It’s constructed on outstanding rocks, overviewing the valley. At the entrance door it’s discriped, that 8 mountains are surrounding this monastery as a lotus and and any of the mountain ranges is ruled by a deva.
The monastery is 1040 years old and has a lot of levels and room for different use. Every day the monastery is open and all room can be visited. As in many monasteries there is always one guest room for the Dalai Lama reserved, so he can come any time. Special here, you can see and enter the room. I went all together 3 times, to look around and meditate there. Sure, also this building with religious and cultural tresures needs renovation.

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Nako to Chango

From 3.600m it shall go down to 3.200m. But by my surprise, the next loops go up…. only later the route goes more down. Here a little snowfall… At one shortcut I come along a kind of temple building worked into the mountain, Tshulung Gompa. Some old couple sits in front and invite me. But where to enter…. I have to climb over a little wall….
Inside they have a surprise for me. There is a young restorator, Pema,  busy painting some 1000 year old statues from tibetian tradition new.

As often. The monasteries are situated over the village. Even though lots of restaurants, hotels and other houses on the way, I want to go there. It’s not to far but climbing. 2 very nice monks, Karmatsering and Palden, welcome me without hesitation. Here is everyone welcome. They have also a stupa, but it feels, no-one is using them. Around the temple I can clearly feel something good.

Next morning Karmatsering can’t wait to cook for me, but I just want potatoes with some oil. They offer me instead of oil ghee. Ghee is made from butter and is even used for candles. The butter needs to be cooked, after the water has left, the rest is then pure fat. Also in Hindu tradition is very well known and used to consume before some breathing technics as well as for healing. In tibetian terms ghee is also used in tea. The problem is, the mountain people don’t put ghee in the fridge, so it becomes for western not so tasty….. I smelled on it…. felt tolerable. … and used it for my potatoes…..
There was a way down from the monastery,  a short cut, but really really steep…. somehow I managed…..
After a while I felt really bad, felt like, the food wanted to come up again….. but it stayed…..
Because of this ugly feeling I developed again, as last year a herpes, same place, but this time I have also a 2nd explanation. Last year I also was above 3000m when it happened. I cured it with honey, what worked very good…. Already in Reckong Peo,  reaching 2.200m elevation I had suddenly a speaking problem. My voice lips were very dry. Every word was so exhausting. After some days it went. But the dryness of the area as well as the strong sun over 3000m helped the herpes to develop. Last year I used only over 4000m a breath protection, a fabric in front of the mouth, this year a bit earlier, the locals also do. This helps the mouth area not to dry out to quick,  keeps some humidity between fabric and mouth as well warms up the air, so that your lungs get not affected by the cold…. And sure, keeps the strong sun away from face and lips. Cappy and huddie I anyway wear all the time.

Meeting other alternative travellers on the way is always something special. Today, and first time this year, two French bicycle riders come noiseless from the back. A little sound from there tires I just noticed when Guenre and Olivier stopped beside me. They have been in Central Asia since last year, since January in India and in June the journey leads them to Central Africa….. But they have a little disturbing news for me….. For French people the Indian embassy does not give two Visas directly after each other, if you have been all the time in India….. uppps…. are the rules for Germans different? …. I don’t think so……
After the nice chat my mind starts to rotate….. my belly follows….. what does it mean for me?….. does this cross my plans?…. what could be the solution?….. how long has the gab to be?…. is this information true?…. (in the end of July my Indian Visa is finished – the plan was and is, after reaching Leh in Ladakh, northern India, to fly to Kathmandu/Nepal, get a new Visa and fly back, to continue the walk in he Himalayas…..) Anyway, for the moment the mind and the belly rotates, where is some calmness in me….. in my heart. … I went to my heart….. that calmness in my heart spreads to my mind and belly……

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From Pooh to Nako

Since a while the people as kind of pushing me. ‚You have to go to…. it’s only 30 km…. or …. 25km/38km. … as if they want to tell me ‚hurry up, later there are areas coming, where you have to stay longer, if you don’t go now,  you will not have enough time later on…‘

Sutlej river (one of the longest Himalayan rivers – which flows through Parkistan in the ocean) which I followed some 100 km,  springs at the Everest, comes here from China/Tibet into India and meets the Spiti river. Sutlej brings muddy water from 10km China, maybe some big construction going on or mining on the Tibet side. The Spiti river is glacier water clear. I sit for an hour at there melting point. Powerful.

In this area a climate change. From now on it is more desert mountain climate. Vegetation now only by irrigation. The mountains are totality free from vegetation, only some little species grow here. The snow fall border lays higher. The area all together is relatively a bit warmer.

Internet is not working anymore, much earlier then I thought. I thought I will have internet all May…. Thre are only two towns coming, where there is internet through WiFi. (One is Kaza, capital of Spiti Valley, where I will get this texts in he blog the next days)

At the street loops, going up or down, I always look for the short cuts. Shortly before Nako I see a apple plantation at a steep mountain , which must lead to the village. But this time I am wrong. Being ‚on the way‘ I don’t want to go back down and have to search for a possibility to get through this steep plantation. The apple trees are flowering.

After another short cut I reach the Nako Gompa. The monastery has lots of buildings. First I meet Sempa Dorje, a ‚free‘ monk, who does not live a monastery life and teaches at the school here. Later he introduces me to Lama Tashi, which is responsible here. Lama Tashi, at least a head shorter than me, shows me around, first in the old monastery, which old wall paintings and a lot of statues,  which all need urgently some restaurations… here is another building, where the kitchen is situated, a third, which is an abandoned monks building, but Lama Tashi is the only one here…. The forth building is a new temple, where Sempa Dorje circles around clockwise at sunset with his mantra…. locked….. and the fifth building is a big guest house…  where only monks have the allowness to stay…. Both monks discuss a while, what they could do with me…. finally, because Nako is a becoming tourist destination, surrounded by such a beautiful mountain scenery, with a lake and lots of terrace fields, waiting to be watered…. I have to stay in one of the hotels for a cheap price. I will stay three night. Because of my special food needs, Sempa invites me for every morning to cook at his room.

One sunset I went with Sempa to a prayer wheel a little bit more up from the village in a outstanding rock overviewing the village…. Here I explained him about some buildings, a peace stupas, a gathering light temple and a vipassana center and proparbly 2 more buildings, etc…. I want to build, when I am back in Germany. … where the money should come from…. ???

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Pooh 2500-2700m

Climing up to Pooh, the villages lay here often further up, the road is closer to the river, I reached at a stupa at an outstanding place, first enjoying the view and resting/arriving. 100m further, my host request was welcomed and transfered to different people, until Santoosh took over. He had to go with me to the police, to ask for allowness to host me, because Pooh lays already in the ‚inner line‘ area, a section close to the Chinese border. But still, I am not allowed in his house, but he invites me to pay a guest house. On the way we see some monkey’s. … oh,  up in this area?… they come for the summer season over the mountains … route is not investigated yet.
Then a little sunset guidance through the village. Some German missionaries have been here in the 18. century, that’s what the history says.  But there are even fotos existing… so it must have been later…. They offered there knowledge of weaving and spinning. Anyway, the missionaries house is in the families ownership.
Also a visit to Santoosh family home. This area has a lot of apple plantation and they offer some ‚looking really fresh‘ ones (from last year). Also some almonds from this!!! year. Wow. Aaaand very special: Some Chilgoza pine tree seed, which grow world wide only in this Kinnaur region and Afghanistan.

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8.5.2018

Dear friends,
I want to update this blog and I feel,  I have no words to write. Not that I have nothing to wright, but maybe, that, what could be announced, has no words…..
To make it clear, not something big has happend (even though always big and small things happens) that I have to write ’nothing’…. it’s just not needed to write something…..

Still here are some words…. to update you a bit….

I am on my path to Kaza, Spiti Valley and Leh/Ladakh…. and I do want to follow this  ‚God-given‘ path,  inside and outside…. even here and there some difficulties are on the way…. it’s a beautiful path…. I am grateful….

Aparna left the walk, joint me on the way to Nepal ( to renew my Visa), left again towards her home in south India. .and thinks of joining again…. let’s see….

The bus ride to Nepal was exhausting, 3 times around 12h ride in one direction and 3 bus rides back to continue the walk…. All together includes 3 night bus rides….. puh. … it took me a while to arrive back on the walking path…..

Now the weather has a cold period, snow 800m more up ( I am at around 2200m ), but it seems, the very cold days come to an end in latest two days….

I reported about supporting from now on the whole group, and I feel, it will enfold naturally. .. fear is gone. …. in a flow

I enjoy very much to be back at ‚Buddha land‘, this and the upcoming area, where are lots of monasteries around, where the spirit of ’space‘ and deepness is feelable….

I love continuing meditating…. it’s so beautiful and connectable…. inside my self. Often I get up at 4/4.30h to have at least 1h or more meditation….

I will have from soon on until end of June less, little or no internet….

And again

Dear friends,
I want to update this blog and I feel,  I have no words to write. Not that I have nothing to wright, but maybe, that, what could be announced, has no words…..
To make it clear, not something big has happend (even though always big and small things happens) that I have to write ’nothing’…. it’s just not needed to write something…..

 

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Supporting the group

From the very soon future I want to be able to support financially everyone who comes to this group. Everyone who want to come to the group, should be able to come, even if someone has no money. If the commitment is there, this should be not a problem at all. I want to go for it. And it’s time to do so.

This is a new chapter in the history of steppps peace walk!!!!

I know univers is giving everything what we need. ‚Everything is everywhere‘, on this I contemplated a while ago for several years. And I know it’s so true!!! And I have so many examples and experiences which proved it.

The peace walk is in general a walk, were we live from that, what we get. Some other peace walkers do that also, with not exepting money or having no money, or having no own money. So everything is given. Because we walk with little money for food here or there, also taking in special occasions a cheap hotel (that’s possible in India sometimes only for 100 or maybe 400 Rupies…  1 € = 75 Rupies). … , clothes they are also mostly given….  we have some money with us. I carry some donations from some of you with me. So everything is given. And it’s all used in responsibility. It has all beauty in it.

I told Aparna yesterday evening about my plans, maybe mentioned it earlier, so it became a bit more concrete…. also by putting the first 5$ in the ‚pot to be‘. She already wanted to donate something in it…. And then I realize…. maybe a bit to quick….
In the night it continued working in my system, because from now on it would mean to take a lot of more responsibilities. …
…. because we have a rest day today, we started sharing about that topic… which is very wide…. and connected with so many other topics and concepts…..
….

…. in process …..
….. a good one …..

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Aparna

It’s very nice with Aparna. I am happy to be a part of a ‚mini‘ group again.
After 5 days we walked 67 km. So that’s not very much, but somehow ok, because of the short cut from Mandi to Rampur. But sure it needs to be improved. Aparna is very commited and working hard on herself, has also a beautiful personality, so when I see that, I am happy to support.
Through some slow and slower walkings I can witness in myself, how my patients has improved… and so on…. good exercise…..
Arriving in Rampur proparbly in 3 days…. I have to look a bit into the upcoming parts, distances, time frames….. check the reality….

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