Dies ist der FriedensPilger-Blog
This is the peace pilgrimage blog

until Fariman, 3 days in Fariman (Mashhad)

The weather is increasing its temperature. 4 days walking south, southeast. Sometimes trees. Sometimes no trees. The sun is shining heavily already in the morning, increasing at midday, does not lose the power until 6pm……

I met really nice people in the way, for overnight staying beautiful help. A outside garden room with persian carpets used for election propaganda was my first night place in Toroq. A youth group was so exited to meet me. Later the evening we had a big laughter coming up. Not really knowing why. Visiters had arrived. A man with all his female relatives. Out if some reason they had to laugh and I just joined in. This elderly 4 women where sitting on the ground, giggling all the time … totally covered in there back capes, partly also covering with the fabric there mouth. Looked like a big fabrik sack vibrating with giggling sound. Uuuuhhh. So good.

Next day chicken farm and the day after I stayed without blanket in a little cabin in the floor. Soooo surprised cold it got at night.

Next day no trees at all. 29 km to walk. At luch a gas station appeared, with some shade. Little nap. Then I did have a deep conversation with my different parts. The ego mind, cramps in my body, the body, and the god-self level. It went on for hours and they all spoke to each other with different voices. Even funny to listen to, where all this voices came from. The god-self level guided the ‚meeting‘. Offering the other levels to surrender, knowing there are no cramps, worried, mind, person…… Surrender into he real self. The time flew by. Suddenly I found such a beautiful place to meditate. Fluffy dry grass polster under my ancles, shade under a tree. The sun went already further down. I maid have sat there an hour until I continued walking.

Some hundred meters later I met my next hosts from Fariman.  6 km more to go. Ok – arriving at around 8pm this would mean. But there was no doubt at all to follow that beautiful invitation. Ali, Fatima and the 8 and 4 year old kids Saman and Mina. They came towards me with a commen white Peugeot and a little tiny caravan, they carried. A caravan is very rare in Iran. This one is about 40years old. Later I learn, it was until last year forbidden to have even one for Iranian citizens.

Arriving at the home was also unusual. Ali had still something to do. So son Saman opened the door. No problem in this family to be with the wife alone at home for a while. Fatima served water with rose water – what a taste. When Ali arrived he immediately told me his dramatic moments when he was 6 and involved into a horrible accident. His upper leg was completely in the middle separated from the rest of the body and he was the first patient worldwide, where the leg was successfully joint together. He had to stay all together 2 years in hospital, because he had more injuries. With help of the doctor’s moving and sport exercises the leg grew nearly normal. Today there is only 1cm difference between both legs. Unusual is this Family also, because they have open curtains. Light is coming in – View travels out. Connection to mother earth.

Ali and Fatima are crazy for travelling.  They want to see the whole world. 1 year with the kids and this cute caravan. Looking inside this ex-french ‚egg‘ it is like a little persian space miracle…. As in many houses in Iran, rooms are empty. People sit and eat in the ground. So also here. No big furniture in there. Just empty space covered with a red Persian carpet. At night all the blankets get enrolled and a wonderful family sleeping space is opened. Surprise. All the family has because of this clue enough room in there. On one side there is even room for a sink and a gas stove. On the other side is one extra bed….. In all Mashhad (a 3,5 million city) are only 10 caravans.

Fatima is an super excellent cook. Normally meat eating family, she performs with some ideas from the internet, a fabulous vegetarian meal. And not only at the first evening. It went on. For example with watermelon smoothie with rose water as the introduction for the breakfast next morning.

In the evening we still hear honks and celebration sound from the street. Iran has elected President Rohani again. Release. People hope for a further opening of Iran. Iranian went through a raft time already for a long while and I can only hope, that the people have a more easy life….. incl lots of travel issues. I just love Iranians so much and I hope from my heart all the best for this amazing beings.

Anyway, it was clear from the beginning that I love to stay 1 day. I was happy to extend my stay, while having warm invitation wishes, for 3 full days.

Ali helped me with 2 dentist visits. Nothing big, just a crown felt out and there was a little other place, which I forgot at the first visit. The dentist arranged a gathering in a garden of an 83year old and superfit men who had worked so many years in Germany. Even he, who becomes a German pension, has problems to get a Visa. We went to a waterdam a little bit outside of Fariman at the next evening.

Because of the travel and caravan enthusiasm I got convinced to make a little trip. Hihihi. Again to Mashhad. It’s true, I did not see a lot there. I was to busy.  So we went. Overnight staying in a park. Visiting another beautiful park, called stone park. Fantastic arranged stony hill with a surrounding park. Water games and playgrounds for the kids. I guess here, while tree hugging, Saman liked it and the next day I found him bonded to a tree somewhere. So nice. A new tree hugger…..

We really slept all in that little egg and found us at a relaxing breakfast outside in the well disposed day. Sunny and relaxed atmosphere. Ferdosi’s, tomb. This poet died 800 years before. A interview could not take place, because the media could not arrange a translater. Anyway. 3 days before there was a article published about me in the 3rd biggest newspaper of Iran, the biggest in this area. 2.000.000 readers, that say.

Before we want back to Fariman, we had lunch picknick. A men came closer, collecting plastic and bread. This he can sell to a recycling company and some animal shelter. I gave him two peace birds and so we started all to talk. He so poor. Starting crying when we offered him some food and some of my 10% money. What a heartful meeting.

Tomorrow I continue walking heart filled up on all levels.

Saturday Ramadan starts. Again I participate.

Everyone who come to Mashhad is welcomed to stay for a week in the Caravan. Ali said, he is in your service. Contact him at +98 915 561 8418

Love, peace, Happiness


developing a longing

Dear friends.

I left Mashhad yesterday, south first, later south east.

My heart is really happy to walk again – and to walk towards Afghanistan. So happy. So happy. Sooo happy.

I remember walking barefeet so much. In the beginning of the journey. And I do not know why – but I stopped doing it. And there – inside, this longing is rising up again, to walk barefeet.


The longing is there – to do it …. now….. ?not yet ….. don’t know why…..

Walking in Presence 😊😊😊

maybe something to smile

Hi friends,

Maybe this is something to smile, but it feels good….😊😊😊😊

Last year I was 54. Two times 27

27 is a age a really like. Maybe it’s the best age in my opinion. Even when I was 27, I kind of felt it, I realised it also then. I was grown up. I had my own life. I got more confident, what I liked in life…..

Now, when I write this, I realise, that was the time, when I ‚woke up‘ first. It had to do with coming in contact with harmonic singing. That really brought me back to my heart. So, it’s maybe also a rhythm, a circle of 27 years  (I don’t know how many circles of 27 I will make….. – its also 9×3/3×9)

I don’t know how long it is ago, I said inside to myself: when I am 80 I want to feel, to be like 27 again. By this I mean bodily fitness, freshness, open minded, knowing there is still so much coming…… and for sure I want to keep all my experiences with me.

Until I was 46 1/2 I never felt any difference between 27 or younger and than. Then suddenly I could see – yes it’s true, this guy or this girl, they are somehow younger.

When I started the peace walk, I already new that I had to kind of come closer to 27 again and that I kind of have to work on it. I thought I would find some technic or something else – I did not know what- what could help me to come closer or get in the direction to 27 again…..

Anyway, nothing really showed up yet, and I turned one year older than 54. That day, or very close by, I thought, from now on I do the first steps by counting backwards. Means, when I do the next circle of 27 years, I am back at 27!!!!

Uuuuhhh. I really really like that. So, 54 (+) -1 year is exactly 53!!!! That feels so good, getting wiser and year by year closer forward my real age 27!!!! I love it so much.

Are you smiling now?

I do!!!!

Imam Reza’s shrine

All 12 Imams who came after Mohammad where born in Medina. Reza is the 8th Imam after Mohammad and he came and died here in the area. Finally they build him a shrine and it became after some miracles happens a pilgrim’s place.

Coming there first, I could not believe my eyes. It was night and I saw the area only from outside, because I just want shopping before. A beautiful illuminated – sure it is a super huge mosque – looking like a palace from 1001 night. The beauty is tremendous.

When I went again I went also inside, and again it was night. The area has so many courtyards. I still was astonished by the beauty. How super beautiful. Just only the beauty maked me humble. Sure we could say it’s pomp,  But it’s not. It’s just soooooo beautiful. All the halls are decorated from artists by hand. Templates of tiles and ceramics make every quare meter of the halls and places unique. Also a lot of mirror pieces are put together in huge art pieces, everywhere on the walls and roofs. It’s really a place of unbelievable beauty. In the middle of the whole complex is the shrine. All the time, day and night , tausands of people are praying everywhere. At the shrine its sometime a bit a pushing athmosphere. But people pray contemplate, lots of people cry because of suffering, hopelessness, bliss or happiness or release.

Outside on top of the shrine a golden dome, surrounded at the whole area by golden or colourful tile decorated gates and arcads. A lot of beautiful golden shining or also tile decorated towers.

The beauty seems to be perfect.

A palace for and in the use of the people. Normally palaces are built for kings or goverments and not everyone can go. This is a palace from and for the people. Everyone can use.

I made some fotos at night. At day time I went there with the idea to make a series of photos, but I did not know where to start. Everything is so beautiful. As it is also  holy place……

Also a big surprise for me, that I never heard about this place ever outside of Iran.

Anyway. I want a lot of times. Mostly including a silent prayer time. What a great space.

One of my hosts, Amir, he told me, that he witnessed a blind men being healed. He could see again.

restless in Mashhad

Dear friends.

I arrived exactly in Mashhad compleating 5 years of steppps peacewalk. The actually anniversary I stayed in bed. Steppps walked since 28.4.2012 14.478 km.

Mashhad, the city of Imam Reza with his holy shrine. Mashhad, the destination of so many pilgrims coming from everywhere in the Muslim world. Second biggest mosque in the world, and 15-25 million pilgrims every year come here, to pray at the shrine. So many miracles and surprisingly solutions for any kind if problems are reported. More a little bit later.

I am really in need for a good rest, but at the second day in Mashhad I have to get first to the Afghanistan embassy. In Tehran (Afghanistan embassy there) they have told me, that it takes 6 days to get the Visa here. Surprise. They tell me now, that I have to get back to Tehran, to get the Visa there. Uppps.

Two visits at the Parkistan embassy have not really a result too. They want to call me back. So I book with the help of a friendly Mehdi, (he is somewhere around 45+-, son of Afghanian refugees, born in Iran, has never been in Afghanistan at all. Afghanians here are not allowed to get a Iranian passport.) a night train to Tehran.

I can’t stay in that relativ expensiv Hotel any longer, so I found another Hotel, cheaper, for one night. All my contacts, I had before, offering me a place to stay, can’t fullfill there announcements and promises out of different reasons. Congratulations. Hmmm

Night train to Tehran. Embassy of Afghanistan in the morning. They want 130$, puh.  But I could pick it up in the afternoon. But there are a bit corrupt. Soon after a person in the motorcycle comes and want to cash the money. I don’t have so much dollars anymore so I pay 80$, the rest I want to pay in Real. Uppps. The rate for that is so bad that I wake up. There is something wrong. Because the Visa is regularly only 80$ they want to make with an ‚express service‘ some extra illegal money. The motor cycle guy cashed the money, gives only 80$ to the official embassy worker, and the rest they share later. So the embassy worker never touched any black money. I ask again and find out that I have to wait with no express service 2 days for the Visa. Ok.

I go to the Parkistan embassy. It’s to early to ask for that Visa.

The night will be on the floor of a very small Caravan of Manfred, German, whom I bumpt in during the day. This guy is amazing, he is now in his 60th but he went by long distance truck driving from Germany until India and most of the north African states. He has a lot of stories to listen too……

In the afternoon, after a nice magical time in Laleh park,  two girls, Aylar and Roshanak, speak to me. We have a nice conversation and a cinnamon tea together. The same evening they organized for me a stay in a friend’s flat. I can come the next night. Oh that’s great.

And it’s really great. Artin, with German and Iranian passport has decited to live for a while again in Tehran. He grew up in Köln. It’s his parents flat, which they kept. And it’s a guy with inner space. He is also meditating. We have a real good time together including meditating together with up to 4 people. How wonderful. (One of his friends is a Vipassana practitioner. But the only Center was closed by he government shortly before. Now the practice in the underground) At the last day there, I have so much fun to offer and clean his really needy fridge before I take the night train back to Tehran.

The Visa for Afghanistan I picked up 2 days before. Luckily I saw already in the embassy, that they gave my a wrong Visa. I the time waiting for the right Visa I meet Ali, a buisiness men, who has a company in Herat. He offered me any kind of help, when I am in Herat. He payed 880$ for a 1 year Visa with multiple entries to Afghanistan. Not to believe.

When I came back to Mashad I had a offer again, to stay with someone, but they did not communicate with me during the whole day. I was so tired, could not sleep in the night train. Too warm. So I waited all day for a message, which came at 22.30h that night,  when I already booked a cheap hotel again. But I could come the next day.

Anyway, I had another problem to solve. I had no money anymore. So I found Madjid, who help in this kind of helpless situations. Because sanctions are officially not there anymore, but in fact it’s still the same isolation of the country. So no money transfer is possible into Iran. At least not on direct way. So this guy has a account in Dubai, through which the money has to come……. This is a very long story, it took us 5 full mornings to make it happen. There where some extra obstacles with my PayPal account, because I do not have any German phone number anymore to recieve a pin code…. So my sister had to help me. Also we had to call several times the PayPal service in some random country with the code +353, but we couldn’t solve the problem. Finally. He had this solution. From my account my sister transfered to a German friend of Madjid the money. He paypaled it to Madjids PayPal. Then another transaction to his Dubai account and finally to his Iranian account. In the mean time, any time I went to his office, I made a lot lot lot of Peace birds. Yesterday I got the money with some reduced fee for me, he said the first time in his company history. Also some loss in changing rates from € – $ – Dubai Dinars to Iranian Real. Hihihi.

In the meantime I stayed with Amir one night, two night for free in 2 different hotels with a lot of tohuwabu around what was very exhausting. Because of moving in my ‚rest time‘ so often, I decided to stay in one cheap hotel, now since already 6 nights. But I can’t tell, that I had I real rest time at all since I arrived in Mashhad. So many things, so many stories, so many many restlessness things…..

All together, I walked in my ‚rest time‘ in Mashhad and Tehran, 70km. Hihihi

As a real rest I can only mention 1 1/2 days in Tehran. 

All together, I can say. Since maybe Neyshabur, but surely after crossing the mountains and arriving to Mashhad, the energy has changed. People have different face shape, behavior is different, there are always all this pilgrim’s in the city, which behave somehow as being in a hurry. This shrine attracts surely also a lot of businesses. Maybe they are also a bit more conserative….. and a city is anyway often restlessness.

So. It seems that I continue walking tomorrow morning towards the Afghanistan border – 250km – then Herat – another 150km – .



Neyshabur to Mashhad

My plan was originally to walk from Neyshabour over the mountains towards Mashhad. My online map is showing me a walking way over a 3.555m mountain, but there seems to be no marked way and a 40km distance incl. the up and down climing in one day. If you ask someone that you want to cross the mountain range at this point or somewhere close by, they are always a bit irritated…  and don’t know what to say. People advise you always to walk along the roads, means in this case around the whole mountain range, because Mashhad is on the other side. I decide to leave the city and walk towards east for one day. In my map and later on the landscape, I see, there is another valley Kharv-a Bala (about 2 days away). So maybe there is another way over the mountains. I wish for myself to find someone who could give me some advise. The energy has not left, means the feeling I have about Neyshabur and I ask myself if something in the history happened here what is not healed. But I can’t find out. I am leaving the city through the old road to Mashhad, so I can avoid again the highway. I have just 15 to 18 km to go so I take a lot of rest here and there. At 4pm I found a really nice tree and grass area, I have a nap and finally I see a onion flower so beautiful. The evening light makes her shining even more. I want to make a foto of her, but the wind is moving her around a lot. It takes more than 15 min to make some useful picture. Around this time, I guess a little bit before my rest place, I felt, now the weird city energy is gone. Everything feels ’normal‘ again. I asked myself, what would I have done, if that would happen in Afghanistan to me. Would I have left the city earlier, because I would guess there is something not ok actually?

Anyway. It didnt take long and I reached a little village Mamory. A men seems to wait for me.  Mehdi. He shaked my hand. Salam. Hubi? How are you? Cheli huub. Good. But he did not let his hand go from mine. He pulls me gentle into his property. A garden with maybe 40 to 50 trees. There we are sitting. He said: I guess you want something now. But I was fine. Everything was offered I refused, what is in general not very polite. But tea I did not want. I don’t like black tea so much. I always ask for hot water. And the ice cream I did not want too, because I do not eat sugar. He kind of gave advise to all the women being there, and I was asking myself, where are all this women from? After he found out, that I am vegetarian he suggested to drive into Nayshabur to shop a bit and also see a friend. My backpack he moved into his house and I went just with my telefon. I always trust the people, but here I ask myself, would I find the house again?, what would I do, if this happens to me in Afghanistan?. Put a little position marker in my online map. And the house has a very unique looking at one window. It lookes like a big smily. They had to put some wire’s to both sides of the window in a form of a happy face. So this I would easily find again. Haha back to Neyshabur. All the days effort back in 3 quarters. We picked up Ismail, a friend of him. Neyshabour is the city in Iran, where you get the best Turquoise from the close mountains. And Ibrahim, while Mehdi went shopping, showed me two very nice workshop. In the first they already have the polished stones, ready to sell or do rings or so from it. He even bought me a little turquoise. Then we went to a polish workshop. And a was allowed to polish a stone. That was really exiting. Later he showed me another workshop for making sweets. And we went to a earlier renovated caravansaray, which houses now little shops for tourists. What a nice welcoming to new friends. We had a wonderful vegetarian warm dinner. Still could not find out, what was maybe once happens in Neyshabur, but our visit reconciled me a bit. And…. Mehdi was the one giving me more information about crossing the mountain. He did it once in his 20th from Darud and gave me some information. First he wanted to worry. I told him that worrying never helps. I am happy for any kind of caretaking or warning, but worrying is not helping. At the next day he gave me so much food. I asked myself ‚what is that all for‘? Maybe two days. And I asked Mehdi also about Imam Reza Shrine in Mashhad, if he has a personal story with it. After a while he said, that I am the actual last story. He considered me as the guest of Imam Reza. His, Mehdi’s, invitation to his house was actually Imam Rezas invitation he said.

With my sensitive parallels to Afghanistan I decided : There is no other way than trusting the people…… I would make myself crazy not to do so….

My way today was to go to Darud. 22km. First flat area, then up towards the valley town. Beautiful when the water runs down the river. Kind of touristy place. I was keen to find out how high the mountains are…. no info…  I slept at a kind of outside cafe. The very friendly owners Mashallah and Sadad were helping me with blankets and some food. I guess the night place was on something like 1400 to 1500m. They had no panic knowing that I would cross the mountain. And anyway, if something happens or I can’t find the way, I can come back. Two days before I had found in the net, that even the 3.555m peak is easy to reach. No climing. So this pass would be anyway a bit lower. They also gave me a lot of food, so I had really to carry something. I kind of easy find the way. At one point I was not sure. I had a little map from Mehdi and Mashallah gestured when leaving, the left way, but was it his path fork? I waited half an hour,  no-one showed up. But there was a little hut on the right way. So I went asking. Yes the left path was ment. Partly it was really going up. I was sweating. My first real mountain this year. And I had to eat some of the fruits. To heavy and I needed energy. There was another path fork where I wasn’t sure. I guessed that both went over the pass but came out to different valleys on the other side. There, even here some motorbike tracks?! After eating something more I made my decision. Wonderful mountain areas. On the north side of the mountains was some more snow left. I guessed to be at a level of 2.500 to 2.800m. It was a fantastic sunny day, so I had the best view I could get for finding the way down in the valley. But first I enjoyed being up there. I got even some snow to eat, what I love so much. An hour later some sport krad drivers passed by. But there where some snowy areas, where I would have been scared to drive there. But hey managed. End of April. I think we were some of the first this year to cross.

In the valley I was overwhelmed by blooming cherry trees. At one place I was amazed by a cherry plantation owner, how beautifully artistically he has designed the irrigation system by what nature offers him, slate rocks. I was wowed. Would have loved to meet this guy, but he wasn’t to find. On the north side even more water was running down the hills and cars and people had always to cross. Sometimes I was not sure if cars or me could manage, quite deep. But all went fine. The night I slept outside. Made a fire.

The next day I had surprisingly not to continue walking through valleys. Instead the way was built on the to of the mountain streamers. There was one magical moment, when a saw violett trees in light green valleys. I got some offers to take a car…… But….. you know…. I am walking. And the way was much longer than I thought. Food was just enough. Surprisingly. Thanks dear hosts.

People reacted different. So often they ask me in Farsi for the way. Also they looked different. Structure of the faces had changed.

I was really done. Since Sabzevar no more break. I was looking forward to have a good, really good rest in Mashhad.

The next night hi stayed with Mohammad and his wife Samane and 1 year old Jazanneh. I was so sorry for Semana, because of me she had to cover not only get hair and breast, she also wore anothe body cape the whole night, what women do normally only outside the house. A bit conserative family. Hard to cook and take care of a baby with aĺl that.

It’s 22km into Mashhad center on the road or 26km through the hills and on smaller ways. My online map found this really good route. Mashhad has 3.5 million people. The city is really big. I went the calmer way. Arriving in the center I had done 81km in 3days. Puh. … And 859 km from Tehran in just 46 days. Puh. …

I am 7 days early by surprise.

4 offers to stay disappeared in he days before arriving. And I had no power to ask somewhere around. So I went in the first hotel – a bit overpriced – negotiated a bit – and booked a room for 2 nights.


From Sabzevar to Neyshabur

I left Sabzevar with really good feelings. Ali brought me a bit with his car, so I could not miss the right direction. Guessing this in advanced I had walked the way until there before, so there is still a continuously step by step connection. I much appreciate always people, who have developed inner space in themself. Ali is one of that kind. Also in Sabzevar I met Hamid and his father. Hamid spread so much welcoming and love, really nice. With Hamid I am still until today in contact. On the way out of the city I was stopped by some exited reporters, I guess from the local news. Everywhere I felt love leaving this desert city.

I had chosen to leave the highway to take a smaller road to Neyshabur. Crossing a little mountain range and to my surprise – it became a little greener. I even saw some fields, who are obviously not connected with some irrigation system. Some drought almond trees where also growing there. Beside that they where also irrigated field and you could see the enormous difference. Sabzevar was on around 1200 meter above see level. The range was mayby just 400m higher to cross. Lower behind again. Surprising that the range it is helping with humidity so much more. The clouds come from further north and have to climb over some 3000+ mountains.

At the evening I reached a little village called Aliyak. Even though I had only little contact with the people, it was just before sunset, I have that evening still grateful in my heart. People guided me into the mosque. A old men showed me around and opened the mosque tea kitchen. It felt so natural for this village community to hand this place ‚over to me‘. Without words I felt ‚our place is yours‘ ‚this place belongs to everyone‘. In such a deep, heardly, natural way I had not experienced it before. I like to pray also in a mosque in a muslim way, but my prayer is always in silence and sometimes I add some other movements into it. Also I do the prayer much slower than all the others. And this was the first time, that I did not feel observed or judjed in a mosque. There was a field of so much trust, just beautiful.

I had not to walk so far to Soltan Abat, so I could take a lot of resting time. Hamid and Ali from Sabzevar had given me so much food on the way…. but I needed all, only my water was gone. In my mind I thought of getting some more water at a junction, in my map there was a bus station marked and I thought maybe there would be a little shop….. but nothing then a dry field area. Exactly there stopped a truck driver. Wild gesticulating he waved me to his truck. He filled all my 1 1/2 liter bottle up with fresh tasty cold water. ‚He‘ was my shop. In Soltanabat I was again brought to the mosque for over night staying. But after a little while a police men in civil acting being important interviewed me. He vibrated a uncomfortable feeling and with some misunderstandings he brought me to another place. After Sabzevar I kind of got more sensitive towards situations which maid show me what to do or feel in upcoming next country Afghanistan. Looking back this was just a collection of kind of missunderstandings during the whole evening.

It was beautiful to see all the irrigated areas and it felt like being in paradise after some weeks at the desert borders. Friendly hosts appeared. I really bow to all of them. Iranian hospitality is very special.

One of my hosts, Ali from Ebraim Abat, is marked in my memory, because of his humbkeness and gracefullness. I had a wonderful day walking through the ‚paradise‘. So many green fields and beautiful trees. Later I found out, he already saw me sitting under a big tree, at the entrance if his village. It was a bit early, and he did not ask me by then. I enjoyed that tree, eating some dates. Realising that some ants living also there, I put a date kernel and big piece of date flesh close to two entrances of the earth ants nest, witnessing the process of finding the food. They managed to get the kernel even into the small entrance. And it was so interesting to see how they manage such difficult situations. Anyway I was sitting there around an hour and continued my way. At 6pm I witnessed Ali standing some hundred meters away at his car. Coming closer he started to make contact just by looking at me. When I stood in front of him, it felt that he inwardly bowed to me, with gracefullness, in his chosen role to serve for me, and a little shyness combined with such a friendliness, waiting patiently, if I accept his request. This young men is just giving me a precious gift by acting so, what a beautiful moment. Sure, he will bring me back to this place tomorrow morning, so I happily accept his invitation. Thanks for this special moment, Ali, for food, bed and yourself….

Scenery changed the next morning. The upcoming city announce itself. I was not prepared, 20km before to have so much more traffic, fabrics….. I learned, Neyshabur has 240.000 inhabitants. Puh. Arriving from the south of the city, it feels, that Neyshabur has enough garages for whole Iran. Km by km garage on garage. It is Friday, Muslim weekend, and I am surprised by so many stinking trucks. The garages itself also don’t have the best radiation and smell, so I have to work me through this, taff. Reaching the center, energy change but I am done. Downtown I can’t make any real contact and after a while this sentence in me arises ‚you can’t ask anyone here‘. What to do. The sentence stays….. Finally after I had a Pizza, Amir talks to me and brings me to his family shop. The brother Mossah has big plans the next day with me. He is a teacher, wants to bring me to his class next morning and afternoon, show me a tomp of Kayyan, a famous poet, and finally show me a farm. I agree. At the family’s house I am welcome but something is already in the air. We got up at 6.30am. Mother makes me a lot of food to take and I am already a little bit irritated, but don’t come suspicious by than. Against his statement that we are walking to the school the car is ready now. Ok. We are driving and driving until I guess, that something is ‚different’…. Finally we arrive at very nice area, it’s the park with the tomb. ‚Here you can rest‘ he says. He just wants to drop me here… At 7am in the morning. 6km out of the city. His boss had told him, that I can’t come to the school. He is so embarrassed, that he could not tell me before. All day plans are cancelled. I am for a little while angry, then I just give up. That’s what happens also in this culture, if something happens what is not to diguest in the moment, sometimes weird things happen. Communication is not possible than. After a little while I enjoyed my morning. Then I started walking back into the city, because the way should be not interrupted. I booked a hotel for the night.      

we are all connected

Dear friends.

A little reminder.

I still do not have regular Facebook connection. Also I could not read all the messages I got from you via Facebook messenger. There are 77 messenges. I will read them after Iran.

Communication works good on whatsapp. my adress there is +30 6980654542

Also I post nearly every day on instagram: schmockelthomasheinrich Also a lot of fotos

For sms you can reach me one way at +98 937 6105335. But I can’t answer from there.

And anyway email: steppps@gmx.we

Love you all


Explanation and the ’statement‘. Erläuterungen und ‚Erklärung‘

English /Deutsch

Dear friends/Liebe Freunde

I am now in Mashhad and I will write more about what happened on the way to here soon.

Ich bin jetzt in Mashhad und ich werde gleich noch mehr schreiben, was alles in den letzten Wochen passierte.

There is a statement to make, a statement that I wanted to do a long long time ago. But always I did not find the right time to write it down.

Ich hab eine Erklärung abzugeben. Das wollte ich schon lange lange vorher gemacht haben, aber ich immer nicht den richtigen Moment dafür gefunden.

Since about 30 years I know, that I wanted to do this walk. Since then I witnessed all the news I heard about the route and some difficulties on this way. When I heard about people being killed or kidnapped or with other difficulties on the way I always proved, what I would have done, to avoid situations like that, or if not to avoid, how to react in that situation.

Seit ungefähr 30 Jahren weiss ich, das ich diese Wanderung machen werde. Seit dieser Zeit beobachte ich all die Nachrichten die diese Strecke betreffen. Wenn ich von Situationen und Problemen auf dieser Route gehört oder gelesen habe, wie Entführungen oder Mord oder andere Schwierigkeiten, hab ich immer in mir geprüft, geforscht, was hätte ich in der Situation getan um sie zu vermeiden, oder falls ich etwas nicht vermeiden könnte, wie hätte ich reagiert, wie wär ich damit umgegangen.

Would I take other routes? Would I stop the walk? What would be the best……..

Sollte ich eine andere Route wählen? Würde ich die Wanderung beenden? Was wär das Beste……

Anyway. Do make it clear. I do not want to die already, I do not want to get kidnapped. I do not want to get ill. I will take care of myself as much as I can. And to the same time I try to do my best to continue the walk, aware of danger, aware what my heart tells me to do, aware choosing other possibilities …. means other routes, or even transportation by car, bus or plane, if needed.

Wie auch immer. Um es klar auszudrücken. Ich will jetzt noch nicht sterben. Ich will auch nicht entführt werden. Auch will ich nicht krank werden. Ich werde so gut auf mich aufpassen wie ich kann. Und gleichzeitig unternehme ich das Beste was ich kann um die Friedenspilgerreise fortzusetzen. Bewusst der Gefahren, bewusst dessen, was mir mein Herz aufträgt, bewusst andere Möglichkeiten abwägen, heisst andere Routen zu wählen oder gar bei Auto,  Bus oder Flugzeug die Reise fortzusetzen, wenn es nötig ist.

Now I will continue walking towards Afghanistan border. That’s about 250 km from Mashhad to there. I have already a Visa for Afghanistan and I am aware of the situation in Afghanistan and the beginning of Pakistan. I played everything through. Different routes and taking a flight….. And so on……  And it always comes back to the original route. Along the highways from here to Herat, Kabul, Islamabad…… to India and so on. Aware that I always can stop walking whenever it’s needed…..

In wenigen Tagen werde ich von Mashhad Richtung afghanische Grenze aufbrechen. Das sind ungefähr 250km. Ich habe bereits ein Visum und ich bin mit der Situation in Afghanistan und Anfang Parkistan bewusst. Ich hab alles innerlich durchgespielt und durchgeführt. Andere Strecke oder einen Flug nehmen….. und so weiter…. Und es kommt immer wieder zurück zu der ursprünglichen Route. Entlang der Hauptstrassen von hier nach Herat, Kabul, Islamabad…. nach Indien und so weiter…. Mit bewusst dass ich jederzeit die Wanderung unterbrechen oder abbrechen kann.

But my heart always tells me, that I have to continue on this route. My mind comes and put his opinions…… but my heart is stronger and knows more….. so my mind follows the heart directions….

Aber mein Herz bringt mich immer dahin zurück, diese Friedenspilgerreise auf dieser Strecke fortzusetzen/umzusetzen. Mein Verstand bringt seine Ideen ein….. doch mein Herz ist stärker und weiss mehr…… also folgt mein Verstand dem Herzen……

In case something is happening to me, I publish here a statement of my will for different situations. Death, Kidnapping, Illness….

Für den Fall, dass mir etwas zustossen sollte, veröffentliche ich hier eine Erklärung für verschiedene Situationen. Tod, Entführung, Krankheit…..

This statement is a result of many many many meditations and walks, thoughts, moving it around in my heart many many many times. So please respect it as my conciouss will.

Diese Erklärung ist das Ergebnis von vielen vielen Meditationen, dem Gehen, Gedanken, und vielen vielen Abwägungen und Bewegungen in meinem Herzen. Bitte respektiere diese Erklärung als meinen bewussten Willen.

It is also a result of trust and being guided  …  from this beautiful univers, God, Allah, the Buddha inside, Christ concioussness. ….. however we want to call it.

Auch ist es das Ergebnis von Vertrauen und geführt-sein…. von diesem wunderschönen Universum, Gott, Allah, dem inneren Buddha, Christus Bewusstsein….. wie auch immer wie es nennen wollen.

Originally I thought to sent it only to some people, whom I trust and may have to take some decisions in case of…  but there is nothing to hide to anyone, so I publish it here.

Ursprünglich wollte ich es nur zu einigen Menschen schicken, denen ich vertraue und die vielleicht einige Entscheidungen im Fall der Fälle zu treffen haben….. aber ich habe nichts zu verbergen, so veröffentliche ich es hier.

So here is my /Hier ist meine


In case of serious illness….

In Falle ernsthafter Erkrankung…..

I want to cure it on the way. Means, there, where I become the illness or close by I also want to cure it…. Even if it take more than a little while I love to go through it there where I am…… to continue from there, after, the walk

Ich möchte unterwegs genesen. Heisst, da wo ich erkranke oder in der Nähe möchte ich auch genesen. … Auch wenn es ein bisschen länger als eine Weile braucht möchte ich dort gerne durch das Geschehen hindurchgehen…..um anschliessend von da aus weiter zu gehen.

In case of kidnapping….

Im Falle von Entführung. ….

I don’t allow anyone to pay any money towards the kidnappers or other persons to get me ‚free‘ again. I don’t allow any military or violent operations to free me again. I believe fully that there will be another peaceful way of coming free. After being free again I wish to diguest the shock or cure some other problems in the same country where it happened to continue the walk from there. If that is not possible in the same country, I do like to get strong, healthy and ready in the country which follows on my route. For sure I do not want to be brought to my ‚home‘ country Germany after being free again.

Ich gestatte niemandem an die Entführer oder Andere, irgendeine Art von Zahlung zu leisten, um mich wieder ‚frei‘ zu bekommen. Ich verbiete jegliche Art von militärischem oder gewaltwässigem Eingriff um mich zu befreien. Ich bin zutiefst überzeugt, dass es einen friedvollen Weg gibt, aus der Situation frei zu kommen. Danach wünsche ich, einen evtl. Schock oder anderes vor Ort zu verarbeiten und auszukurieren, um danach von dort aus weiterzupilgern. Falls das nicht im gleichen Land möglich ist, möchte ich in den, auf meiner Route folgenden Land, wieder zu Kräften kommen, gesunden und bereit für die nächsten Schritte zu werden. Ganz sicher möchte ich nicht nach der Befreiung in mein ‚Heimat’Land gebracht werden.

In case of death…..

Im Falle von Tod….

My body has to be buried or burned where he dies. Just give him time until the nales and hairs are not growing anymore. (So I have enough time to say goodbye in gratitude to my body) I surely don’t want a transportation ‚back‘ to Germany. I am home everywhere on this planet. If the body will be buried it would be nice somewhere in nature. It should be anonymous. There is no need for a stone or anything else. Also no need for a coffin. (If it is not possible without a coffin, because of regulations, it should be done from rubbish wood or other materials. No costs for that.) Maximum just a linen around the body. If there is a burning, the ashes can be offered to the elements. If possible with no costs. No-one has to fly in for this. There is absolutely no need for it. If there is a goodbye ceremony somewhere on this planet,  I do my best to be there in spirit whereever it is. For sure I will hug everyone.

Mein Körper will dort beerdigt oder verbrannt werden, wo er stirbt. Gib ihm soviel Zeit, bis die Haare und Nägel nicht mehr wachsen. (So hab ich auch genug Zeit um mich in Würde und Dankbarkeit von ihm zu verabschieden). Ganz sicher möchte ich keinen Transport zurück nach Deutschland. Ich bin überall auf diesem Planeten zu Hause. Wenn es zu einer Beerdigung kommt wäre es klasse, er könnte irgendwo in der Natur betraten werden. Es sollte anonym sein. Keine Gedenktafel oder ähnliches. Es gibt auch keinen Grund für einen Sarg. (Falls es wegen irgenwelcher Regeln nicht ohne Sarg geht, dann bitte einen Sarg aus Abfallholz oder anderen Material -keine Kosten für das). Maximal ein Leinentuch oder anderer einfacher Stoff (gerne second Hand) um den Körper. Wenn es zu einer Verbrennung kommt, kann die Asche der Natur und den Elementen dargebracht werden. Möglichst ohne Kosten. Niemand muss dafür anreisen oder einfliegen. Nicht nötig. Soweit es eine Abschiedszeremonie irgendwo auf diesem Planeten gibt, werde ich mein Möglichstes tun, um geistig anwesend zu sein, wo auch immer es ist. Auf jeden Fall werde ich jeden von euch umarmen.

Love and a very big hug to everyone.

In Liebe und mit dicken Umarmung an euch alle.

Euer Thomas



to Mashad around 250km

I have walked 622km in 32 days. Now in Sabzevar. Followed by 3 days of rest.

Actually the rest could continue a bit, if I am honest…..

But there are another 250km to go until latest 5th of May.

I will leave the highway, going a little bit north to Soltanabat, then towards Neyshabur. From there it maid be possible to cross to Mashad through the mountains.  That would be fantastic. Will figure it out.