Starting the walk

At the morning of 3rd of September I wake up and feel like in a state of koma. The intence retreat. …. in my bones…..
How can I walk like this…..
Konchok, my host, motivates me and I decide to start after midday. He wants to accompany me a bit. It is Monday and it’s school free. Krishnas birthday is celebrated country wide.
Still exhausted, but we start at 1pm.
Konchok, a monk and wardan at the disabled school,  where we start, is such a wonderful host. As long as I do the peace walk  this time in this area, …. in the breaks, I always can come to him….. So great….
The plan. Just to walk to Matho, maybe little bit further into the valley what will lead me later into the higher Himalayas. I have a tent and sleeping bag from Skarma and Sunil. A mat from Konchok. And a lot of food with me. The bagpack is heavy, but all is nessassary to have. After 14 km, a bit behind the beautiful monastary the night rest at the Matho Tokpo river.

I made the same mistake as after the last retreat, having not a rest after the retreat for diguesting.

Having no diguesting time it has to be done on the way. So next day I walk only 10 km,  but still hard…. I have to walk over round  rocks in the river bed and I have to cross the river several times…. but it’s super beautiful, old WEIDEN trees….. so beautiful…..
Already at 3pm I build up my tent close to a recluse. Tibetian flags decorate the trees….
And wonderful…. I can meditate a bit more…. good, there is no-one,  and I do not want to meet anyone….. one lonely Yak is passing by, that’s all….

At the morning of the third day I am still a bit exhausted, but it does get better. Looking at the map and guessing where I am and looking at the sun I am really confused where I am. But I could not have walked somewhere else. …. So….???? I just continue the valley further up. Getting some overview the situation gets very clear…. back at orientation….. some horses with some guide pass by, they come from Matho pass further west. Maybe they delivered some food to a remote area or guided some tourists earlier somewhere – maybe to Stok…. and in the way home. The horses have bells around the neck as I only know that from cows in the alps or elsewhere….

Crossing the ShangLa Pass (4940m) I reache in the evening at Shang Puh,  a valley, where 4 rivers meets. Some nomads are here. I camp a km away from the little camp ground, where I met some Spanish tourists. They made a big circle around the Stok range to train themself to get on Stok Kangri (6.137m) on the 8th or 9th of September. Next morning I see the Spanish tourists again, invitation for breakfast. They have a crew of 4 with them, horse guides and cooks, two tents and 5 horses 😊. Surprisingly I find out that I should pay 200 Rupies…. I don’t know for what…. anyone who camps in the valley has to pay this fee… but for what…. I did not recieve any service…. I don’t hear it’s for a nature protection project or something else…. I only see this nomads, who did not even opened there shop…. happy to recieve money…? I talked to them…. I am a peace walker walking with little money…. ok they agree with no fee….
From the Spanish couple I recieve a glass of peanut butter, some cooked potatoes and too Rupies donation…..

This continues the whole day. Everywhere where I tell my story, a donation after the other, so unexpected in the middle of ’nowhere‘. And food for free and so on.
After recieving all the donations I feel: ok with the donation money and my money I have with me I can make it until Zanskar,  before I was not to sure. ….

The way leeds my over the next pass into the spectacular Chuskyurmo valley. Lots of river crossing, but nearly without wet feet. Steep up in the river bed. I can’t make it up to the next pass so I sleep at some little area beside the river bed. With some stones I fix my tent. Good night sleep on 4.800m.  But this sleeping bag is just to thin, I feel. Every night, full clothes wearing, I waek up and freece and shake for a while. Anyway good weather during the day….

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